Some photos and topo routes from a trip on 16-18 Dec. Conditions were perfect but turned back at 2750m due to a nervous climbing partner. Tekano still at risk of loose wet slides on warm afternoons, and prone to rockfall from Scott Peak anytime after the sun arrives. Douglas Neve easily negotiated – gain the obvious spur – see map below.
Bluewater Route: stay high above the scrub, right up under the bluffs. Don’t traverse too low as many people seem to be doing – the scrub is shite. See map.
Best approach from Scott Creek onto the start of the Bluewater Route is at 570m, directly opposite where the true left bank rears up steeply. Climb up the downstream side of a boulder high on the true right bank, with a prominent cairn on top.
mid October: west side of the range and many places on the range crest mostly free of snow. Good coverage above 1600m on eastern and southern aspects, but not enough for caving. Snow generally well consolidated – main risk is loose wet slides.